What it is

Acetone is a powerful, fast-acting solvent widely used in nail polish removers. It is a clear, volatile liquid that works by dissolving varnishes, gels, and some adhesives with exceptional efficiency. Because of its strength, it is the go-to choice for removing stubborn or long-wear formulas, including gel and glitter polishes.

You’ll often find acetone-based removers sold alongside gentler, non-acetone options, which are better suited to fragile nails but less effective on resistant formulas.

How it works in nail care

Acetone works by breaking down the chemical bonds in nail varnish and gel polish, allowing them to lift away from the nail plate. Its rapid evaporation means it works quickly, but it also increases the likelihood of dryness or irritation in the surrounding skin and nails.

For gel polish removal, acetone is typically applied by soaking cotton pads and securing them to the nails with foil or clips. Over time, the gel softens and lifts, making it easier to remove without damaging the nail surface.

While highly effective, it does strip natural oils from nails and skin, which can leave them feeling dry or brittle if used often. Following removal with a nourishing hand cream or cuticle oil helps restore moisture and maintain nail health.

Acetone’s reliability makes it popular in professional nail care settings, where speed and effectiveness are essential. Used with care and followed by hydration, it remains one of the most efficient tools for maintaining polished nails.

What it is

Acne is a very common skin condition caused by clogged pores due to excess oil, dead skin cells and bacteria. Acne most often affects the face, chest, back, and shoulders, appearing as blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules, nodules or cysts.

What it looks like

Acne may present as comedones, inflamed red spots, pus-filled pimples or deep cystic lumps. In severe cases, it can leave scars or dark marks.

Treatment

Skincare treatments like salicylic acid cleansers, retinoids and benzoyl peroxide can help manage mild acne. Severe cases may require prescription medications, such as antibiotics, isotretinoin, or hormonal treatments. Professional options like chemical peels and laser can further improve skin clarity.

What it is

Actinic keratosis is a precancerous skin lesion caused by long-term sun exposure. It is commonly found on the face, scalp and hands.

What it looks like

A rough, scaly patch that may be pink, red or brown.

Treatment

Cryotherapy, topical creams, or laser therapy are often used to remove actinic keratosis and prevent progression.

What they are

Adaptogens are a group of natural substances, often derived from herbs and plants, that are thought to help the body adapt to physical, emotional and environmental stress. In skincare, they are valued for their ability to calm stressed skin, improve resilience and support long-term balance.

Popular adaptogens include ashwagandha, ginseng, holy basil, and rhodiola rosea, each offering range of benefits. Adaptogens are increasingly used in creams, serums, and body care products that focus on stress-related concerns such as sensitivity, dullness or premature ageing.

How they work in skincare

Adaptogens are rich in antioxidants and bioactive compounds that help neutralise free radicals and reduce inflammation. This protective effect helps defend skin against environmental stressors such as pollution and UV exposure, both of which accelerate visible ageing.

By calming inflammatory responses, adaptogens also help soothe sensitive or reactive skin, making them suitable for those experiencing flare-ups or redness. Some are also linked with supporting hydration and improving the skin barrier, which further enhances resilience.

In wellness, adaptogens are often taken orally as supplements or teas to support energy, focus and recovery from stress. In topical products, their role is more about calming and reinforcing skin health over time.

As interest in holistic skincare grows, adaptogens represent a bridge between traditional herbal practices and modern science, offering a natural way to support skin balance and vitality.

What it is

Alcohol and skin conditions are linked, as also discussed in my entry around gut health.

How it works in skincare

Excessive alcohol consumption can dehydrate the skin, making it appear dull and prone to fine lines. Alcohol is dehydrating because it acts as a diuretic, increasing urine production and causing the body to lose water and essential electrolytes.

Alcohol can trigger conditions such as rosacea by exacerbating existing inflammation. Alcohol also reduces vitamin absorption, particularly vitamin A, which is crucial for skin renewal.

Staying hydrated, using antioxidant-rich skincare and moderating alcohol intake can help minimise negative effects on the skin.

What it is

Allantoin is a naturally soothing compound found in plants like comfrey, chamomile and sugar beet, though it can also be made synthetically for skincare. It’s been used for centuries to calm irritated skin, and today you’ll spot it in everything from face creams and serums to body lotions and hand washes.

Gentle, non-irritating and widely tolerated, allantoin is a staple ingredient for sensitive, stressed or damaged skin. If your skin ever feels tight, flaky or inflamed, allantoin is the kind of ingredient that quietly gets to work behind the scenes to make things feel better.

How it works in skincare

Allantoin supports skin health in three key ways: it soothes irritation, promotes healing and improves hydration. First, it works as a calming agent, reducing discomfort and inflammation linked to dryness, eczema, shaving and exposure to the elements.

Second, allantoin supports the skin’s natural repair processes. Allantoin encourages cell regeneration, helping skin recover from minor damage. It’s why you’ll often find it in formulas for post-procedure care, after-sun lotions, or any product aimed at barrier recovery.

Finally, allantoin acts as a moisturising agent; not by drawing in water like a humectant, but by softening and conditioning the skin’s surface. This helps smooth rough patches, reduce flaking, and improve texture over time.

In hand care and body care, allantoin is particularly helpful for dry, cracked or weather-worn skin. It’s non-greasy, non-comedogenic, and plays well with other ingredients like urea, ceramides and glycerin - making it a quiet but powerful addition to any restorative formula.

What they are

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids derived from natural substances such as fruit, milk and sugar. Common acids in this category type are include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. AHAs work by exfoliating the skin’s surface to reveal a brighter, more even complexion.

How they work in skincare

In dermatology, AHAs are often used in chemical peels, serums and exfoliating treatments. They are effective in addressing concerns such as dullness, fine lines and uneven skin tone, making them a go-to for improving overall skin texture.

The benefits of using such acids include smoother, more radiant skin, reduced pigmentation and fewer fine lines. AHAs encourage cell turnover and help the skin retain moisture, making them a versatile choice for most skin types. However, they can increase sun sensitivity, so sunscreen is essential when incorporating them into your routine.

What they are

Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins (including collagen, elastin and keratin) all of which are vital for healthy skin structure and function. Your body naturally produces some amino acids, while others must be obtained through diet or topical skincare.

In skincare, these acids are included in serums, moisturisers and body products to support hydration, repair and barrier health. They’re naturally present in the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF), which helps maintain smooth, supple texture and prevent water loss.

How they work in skincare

Amino acids work in multiple, skin-supportive ways. First, they’re deeply hydrating, helping the skin retain moisture by attracting and binding water molecules. This keeps the skin soft and comfortable, and makes them especially valuable for dehydrated, dry or sensitive skin types.

Second, they help strengthen the skin barrier. A healthy barrier protects against irritants, pollution and moisture loss, and amino acids play a direct role in replenishing and maintaining that barrier, particularly after it’s been compromised by over-exfoliation, harsh weather or inflammation.

Certain amino acids also have specific benefits:

Arginine supports healing and collagen productionGlycine helps maintain skin elasticityProline and lysine are involved in rebuilding collagen fibresHistidine has natural antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

In hand care and body care, amino acids help soothe and fortify, making skin feel calmer, stronger and more resilient. They also complement actives like peptides, hyaluronic acid and ceramides for a well-rounded approach to hydration and repair.

If your skin feels tight, rough or out of sync, amino acids are a gentle yet effective way to restore balance and bring the skin back to comfort.

What they are

Antioxidants in skincare, such as vitamin C, niacinamide and green tea extract, play a vital role in skincare by combating free radicals. These unstable molecules damage skin cells, causing premature ageing, dullness, and inflammation.

How they work in skincare

By neutralising free radicals, antioxidants protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. They also brighten the complexion, reduce fine lines, and support collagen production. Incorporating antioxidants in your skincare routine can enhance skin health and resilience over time.

What it is

At home pore vacuum devices are handheld tools designed to suction debris from the pores. They have became popular through social media demonstrations, promising instant blackhead removal and smoother skin. These tools rely on mechanical suction that pulls at the skin’s surface. They can be tempting for at-home use, but often carry a high risk of bruising, broken capillaries and barrier damage if used incorrectly.

How it works

Pore vacuums target congestion by physically extracting sebum and build-up. However, pores do not open or close, and suction does not selectively remove deep-rooted congestion. Excessive pressure can stretch the skin, disrupt the barrier and worsen sensitivity.

Dermatologists generally recommend gentler and more effective methods, such as salicylic acid cleansers, chemical exfoliants, or professional extractions where the skin is prepared and treated safely.

For skin health, using an at home pore vacuum regularly can lead to inflammation and uneven texture. On more delicate areas such as the nose or cheeks, bruising is particularly likely. This makes pore vacuums unsuitable for hand care or body care, where the skin is often thinner or more sensitive.

Professional treatments like hydrafacials, chemical peels or manual extractions by trained clinicians offer safer, more controlled results for congestion without the risks associated with at-home suction devices.

What it is

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound derived from grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. In skincare, it is synthesised for stability and used in various formulations for its multitasking abilities.

How it works in skincare

In dermatology, this acid is widely used to treat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. It works by reducing the growth of acne-causing bacteria, soothing inflammation and inhibiting melanin production, making it an effective brightening agent.

The benefits of azelaic acid include calming redness, fading dark spots, and improving overall skin tone. It’s gentle enough for sensitive skin and provides antioxidant protection against free radical damage. Regular use can result in clearer, more radiant skin with fewer blemishes and less irritation.

What it is

Bakuchiol is a plant-based compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant. Known as a natural alternative to retinol, bakuchiol offers similar anti-ageing and skin-rejuvenating benefits without the risk of irritation.

What is Bakuchiol Used For in Skincare

In dermatology, bakuchiol is often used in serums and moisturisers designed for those with sensitive skin or those looking for gentler options. Bakuchiol stimulates collagen production, reduces fine lines and improves overall skin texture.

The benefits of bakuchiol include smoother, firmer skin and a reduction in pigmentation and redness. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol does not cause dryness or sensitivity, making it a great choice for those who want the benefits of retinol without the potential drawbacks. Bakuchiol is also safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

What it is

Beef tallow, a traditional rendered fat, has recently surged in popularity on social media as a natural and effective skincare ingredient. Particularly championed by advocates of minimalist and ancestral skincare routines, beef tallow has become a point of fascination for its simplicity and purported skin-nurturing properties.

Beef tallow is rich in vitamins A, D, E, and K, as well as essential fatty acids. These nutrients closely mimic the natural oils found in human skin, allowing tallow to act as an emollient - deeply hydrating and protecting the skin barrier. Social media influencers and skincare enthusiasts have raved about the ability of beef tallow to soothe dry, cracked skin and support conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

Use of Beef Tallow

Despite its growing popularity, the use of beef tallow in skincare isn’t without controversy. Critics question its appeal due to its strong scent and animal-derived nature, which may not align with vegan or environmentally-conscious preferences.

For those curious about beef tallow, it’s essential to choose high-quality, grass-fed sources and test the product on a small patch of skin before broader use.

What it is

Benzoyl peroxide is a well-known skincare ingredient used to treat acne. It works by killing acne-causing bacteria, reducing inflammation and helping to clear blocked pores. You will often find it in spot treatments, face washes and leave-on gels.

How it works in skincare

Mild to moderate acne - Helps clear existing spots and prevent new breakouts.

Inflamed blemishes - Reduces redness and swelling.

Body acne - Often used in body washes for the chest, back and shoulders.

When to Be Cautious with Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide can be drying and irritating, especially for sensitive skin. It may cause redness, peeling and flaking, particularly within the first several weeks of use. Its use can exacerbate dryness and eczema, and is not suitable for rosacea-prone skin. It also bleaches fabrics such as towels and pillowcases.

Safety Concerns

There has been growing concern over the presence of benzene, a known carcinogen, in some benzoyl peroxide products sold in the USA. Independent testing found that under certain conditions, particularly heat, formulations containing it might break down and release benzene. This has raised safety questions and led to calls for more regulation and testing. Some dermatologists suggest being cautious, especially with over-the-counter products stored in warm environments.

If you are considering using benzoyl peroxide, it is worth choosing reputable brands and storing products properly. For milder or sensitive skin concerns, ingredients such as Azelaic Acid might be better tolerated.

What they are

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble exfoliants, with salicylic acid being the most commonly used in skincare. Unlike alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which are water-soluble, BHAs penetrate deeper into the pores, making them ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.

Uses of BHAs in Skincare

In dermatology, BHAs are frequently used in cleansers, toners and serums to treat blackheads, whiteheads and clogged pores. Their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties also make BHAs effective for calming breakout-prone skin.

The benefits of BHAs include clearer, smoother skin, reduced acne and a refined appearance of pores. BHAs work by dissolving oil and dead skin cells within the pores, helping to prevent future breakouts. Regular use can lead to a more balanced complexion.

What it is

Blepharoplasty is a surgical procedure that improves the appearance of the upper or lower eyelids, and commonly referred to as an 'upper bleph' or 'lower bleph'. Blepharoplasty is rising in popularity on social media as people share their post-procedure recoveries.

The procedure can involve removing excess skin, repositioning fat and/or tightening the surrounding muscles. The general goal is to restore a more refreshed and awake appearance, and address concerns such as hooded lids, puffiness and under-eye bags. Blepharoplasty is performed by an oculoplastic or aesthetic surgeon under local or general anaesthesia.

How it works in skin and eye-area health

By adjusting tissue and removing heaviness, blepharoplasty can smooth the contour, reduce shadowing and improve the way light reflects in the eye area. Recovery typically involves swelling, bruising and possibly temporary dryness.

Supporting the skin after blepharoplasty is important. Gentle cleansing, hydration and sun protection help preserve results. Long-term, targeted skincare to support collagen and elastin production can help maintain skin quality in the delicate eye area.

Blepharoplasty does not replace skincare but works alongside it to address structural concerns.

What it is

Blue light and skin health have become more of a focus in dermatology in recent years, especially with the increasing time spent on digital devices. Blue light, a high-energy visible (HEV) light emitted by screens, can penetrate deep into the skin, contributing to oxidative stress and premature ageing. It's also important to note that the majority of exposure to blue light still comes from the sun, regardless of your screen time.

Overexposure to blue light has been linked to collagen breakdown, uneven pigmentation and dullness. Additionally, it can disrupt the skin’s natural barrier, leading to increased sensitivity.

Blue Light and Skin Protection

To protect your skin, incorporate skincare products rich in antioxidants such as vitamin C and niacinamide, to help neutralise free radicals caused by blue light exposure. Broad-spectrum sunscreen, even indoors, can also shield against HEV damage. Opt for a tinted SPF as a tint is needed in sunscreen to protect against visible blue light. Limiting screen time or using blue light filters on devices can provide further defence. If you are experiencing pigmentation or dullness, treatments such as chemical peels and LED therapy can help restore clarity and vitality.

Research on blue light exposure and its effects on the skin is a growing field but is still relatively limited compared to studies on UV light. While there is evidence that blue light, especially from the sun, can harm the skin, more research is needed to fully understand the effects of artificial sources such as screens. Current advice focuses on prevention, including the use of antioxidant-rich skincare, blue light filters, and sunscreen, particularly for those who spend significant time in front of screens or are exposed to natural blue light outdoors.

What it is

Botox is a purified form of botulinum toxin type A that temporarily relaxes targeted facial muscles, smoothing dynamic wrinkles caused by repeated movements such as frowning and squinting. Commonly treated areas include the forehead, crow’s feet and frown lines between the eyebrows. Results are noticeable within a few days, and minimal recovery time is required, although there is the potential for bruising.

Types

Cosmetic Botox: Targets wrinkles and fine lines. Therapeutic Botox: Addresses issues such as excessive sweating, migraines and jaw clenching/teeth grinding.

Benefits

Provides a refreshed appearance and prevents deepening wrinkles with minimal downtime.

What it is

A cannula is a fine, flexible tube used to deliver injectable treatments beneath the skin. In aesthetic dermatology, it serves as an alternative to sharp needles for procedures such as dermal fillers, biostimulators and fat-dissolving injections.

How cannulas are used in skin treatments

Unlike a traditional needle, which has a pointed tip and pierces tissue, a cannula has a rounded end that glides through the layers of skin via a small entry point. This reduces trauma, bruising and swelling and allows for a smoother, more even distribution of product.

Skilled practitioners use a cannula to treat larger anatomic areas like the cheeks, jawline and temples, as well as delicate zones such as under the eyes. The technique enables precise placement of filler with fewer injection sites, lowering the risk of complications such as vascular occlusion. For patients this often means a more comfortable experience, minimal downtime and natural-looking results that respect the contours of the face.

What it is

Centella asiatica, also known as cica, or gotu kola, is a medicinal herb native to Asia. Centella asiatica has been used in traditional medicine for centuries to heal wounds and soothe skin. Its popularity in skincare has surged thanks to its calming and rejuvenating properties.

Skincare Uses of Centella Asiatica

In dermatology, Centella asiatica is found in creams, serums and masks designed to soothe sensitive, irritated and inflamed skin. Cica contains compounds such as asiaticoside and madecassoside, which promote healing and collagen production.

The benefits of Centella asiatica include reduced redness, enhanced skin barrier function and improved hydration. The ingredient is especially useful for treating conditions like eczema, rosacea and post-procedure irritation. Its gentle nature makes Centella asiatica suitable for all skin types, including the most sensitive.

What they are

Ceramides are naturally occurring lipids that make up over 50% of the skin’s outer layer. When ceramides are listed as an active ingredient in skincare, they are often derived from plants or synthetically produced. Ceramides are essential for maintaining the skin barrier and retaining moisture.

What Are Ceramides Used For

In dermatology, ceramides are commonly found in moisturisers and barrier repair creams. Ceramides help to replenish the skin’s natural lipids, restoring and strengthening a compromised barrier. Ceramide-rich products are particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive and eczema-prone skin.

The benefits of ceramides include enhanced hydration, reduced sensitivity and improved skin resilience. By sealing in moisture, ceramides leave the skin feeling soft and supple while protecting from environmental aggressors. Ceramides are highly versatile and suitable for all skin types.

What it is

Chemical peels use acid-based solutions to exfoliate the skin, encouraging cell turnover and revealing fresher, smoother skin beneath. They are commonly applied to the face, neck, or hands to treat pigmentation issues, fine lines, acne scars and dullness. Recovery time depends on the depth of the peel: superficial peels require little to no downtime, while deeper peels may require up to two weeks.

Types of Chemical Peels

Superficial Peels: Use mild acids like glycolic acid for gentle exfoliation. Medium Peels: Penetrate deeper layers such as with trichloroacetic acid (TCA). Deep Peels: Incorporate phenol for dramatic results, but require significant downtime.

Benefits

Leaves skin rejuvenated, smoother and more radiant.

What it is

Chemical SPF is a sunscreen that utilises synthetic UV filters to absorb and neutralise the sun’s harmful rays. Unlike mineral (or physical) sunscreens, which create a barrier that reflects UV light, chemical sunscreens work by converting UV radiation into heat, which is then released from the skin. Common chemical UV filters include avobenzone, octinoxate and oxybenzone.

Use of Chemical SPF

One of the key advantages of chemical SPF is its lightweight, invisible finish. These formulas tend to be easier to blend, making them ideal for daily wear under makeup or on their own. They also offer broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays, helping to prevent sunburn, premature ageing and long-term skin damage.

Modern chemical sunscreens are often formulated with added skincare benefits, such as antioxidants or hydrating ingredients, to provide extra protection against environmental stressors. However, those with sensitive skin may prefer mineral-based alternatives, as some chemical filters have the potential to cause allergy or irritation.

Regardless of your preference, applying SPF daily is essential for maintaining healthy skin. A well-formulated chemical sunscreen offers a seamless, effective way to protect against UV damage while keeping your skin comfortable.

What they are

Chrono-peptides are peptides designed to work in alignment with the skin’s natural circadian rhythm. Skin activity follows a daily cycle, with repair and regeneration processes peaking overnight.

How they work in skincare

Chrono-peptides are typically used in evening formulations to support the skin’s natural overnight repair processes. By delivering signals when the skin is most receptive, chrono-peptides aim to enhance collagen support, barrier recovery and cellular renewal while the skin is at rest.

Chrono-peptides are particularly useful in night creams and serums for skin that appears tired, stressed or slow to recover. Rather than forcing activity, they support the skin’s own timing, making chrono-peptides a gentle but strategic ingredient in long-term skin health.