Emollient

What is an Emollient in Skincare

An emollient is a moisturising ingredient that softens and smooths the skin by filling in tiny cracks and gaps in the skin barrier. Emollients help to lock in moisture, reduce roughness and improve overall texture. They are found in creams, lotions and balms, and are often combined with humectants and occlusives for maximum moisture retention.

How Do Emollients Work

Emollients create a protective layer on the skin’s surface, preventing water loss and keeping skin feeling soft and supple. They are especially beneficial for dry, rough, or irritated skin.

Common Types

Plant Oils - Shea butter, jojoba oil, and coconut oil Fatty Acids & Alcohols - Squalane, ceramides and stearic acid Silicones - Dimethicone for a lightweight, silky feel Petroleum-Based Ingredients - Mineral oil and petrolatum for intense hydration

The Best Emollients for Different Skin Types

Emollients help soften and protect the skin, choosing the right one comes down to your specific skin type and concerns.

For Dry and Sensitive Skin Shea Butter - Deeply nourishing and soothing. Squalane - Lightweight but highly moisturising. Ceramides - Help restore the skin barrier and prevent moisture loss. Petrolatum - Excellent for sealing in hydration, especially for very dry or eczema-prone skin.

For Oily and Acne-Prone Skin Squalane - Non-greasy and fast-absorbing. Dimethicone - A non-comedogenic silicone that smooths skin without clogging pores.

For Mature Skin Argan Oil - Rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids for elasticity. Ceramides & Cholesterol - Help strengthen the skin barrier and improve resilience.

Elastin

What it is

Elastin is a key structural protein found in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin. It works alongside collagen to maintain the skin’s strength and elasticity. While collagen provides firmness, elastin is what allows the skin to stretch and return to its original shape. This makes elastin essential for skin that moves, flexes, and recovers, to aid in everything from smiling to healing after injury.

Elastin fibres form a supportive mesh within the dermis, giving the skin its bounce and resilience. When skin is young and healthy, elastin levels are high, and the fibres are tightly coiled and responsive. Over time, elastin production slows, and existing fibres become looser and more disorganised. This contributes to sagging, wrinkles and a loss of firmness.

The decline in elastin is influenced by both intrinsic ageing and external factors. UV exposure, in particular, breaks down elastin fibres. This is one of the reasons why sun protection is critical not just for preventing pigmentation, but for preserving the structure of the skin.

Unlike collagen, elastin is much harder to regenerate. The body produces very little new elastin after puberty, and most skincare products cannot restore elastin directly. However, certain ingredients and treatments can help protect what elastin you do have and support the dermal environment to slow its breakdown. Topical retinoids, peptides and antioxidants such as vitamin C may encourage fibroblasts to maintain healthier skin structure.

Professional treatments such as radiofrequency, microneedling, injectables and lasers aim to remodel the dermis and stimulate some degree of elastin renewal.

Elastin is also important in wound healing. During tissue repair, fibroblasts are activated to help restore structure and function, though the elastin formed in scar tissue is often less organised and less functional than in healthy skin.

In short, elastin is what keeps skin springy, supple and firm. While you can’t fully replace lost elastin, protecting elastin through daily sunscreen, antioxidant support and collagen-stimulating treatments can help maintain elasticity and slow visible ageing.

Enzymes In Skincare

What they are

Enzymes are naturally occurring proteins that act as biological catalysts, speeding up chemical reactions in the skin. In skincare, they’re most commonly derived from fruits like papaya (papain), pineapple (bromelain) and pumpkin, although some are bioengineered for stability and precision. Unlike acids, which dissolve bonds between dead skin cells, enzymes work more selectively, gently breaking down keratin, the protein that makes up the outermost layer of skin. This makes them especially useful for mild exfoliation, brightening and improving texture without irritation.

How enzymes work in skincare

When applied topically, enzymes in skincare help to digest and loosen dead cells on the surface of the skin, revealing a smoother, more radiant complexion underneath. Because they’re self-limiting (meaning they stop working once they’ve digested available surface proteins) enzymes are less likely to cause over-exfoliation and barrier damage than stronger chemical exfoliants such as AHAs and BHAs.

Enzymatic exfoliation can improve skin tone, help unclog pores and enhance the absorption of other active ingredients. Enzymes are ideal for sensitive and dry skin types, and anyone looking for a more balanced way to refresh dull skin. Formulations often pair enzymes with hydrating or calming agents such as aloe vera, glycerin and green tea to keep skin comforted during exfoliation.

How enzymes work in body and hand care

For your skin below the chin, enzymes in body care are used to smooth rough areas without the need for physical scrubbing. On the hands, enzymes can help soften dry, hardened cuticles and improve the texture of the skin, which can often become thickened or rough through frequent washing and exposure to detergents. Regular use of enzymes leaves the skin softer, clearer and more even in tone.

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